Outside the Stadion Poljud, a group of boys kick a ball against the green wire fence that surrounds the players’ entrance. An old church stands silent on the other side of a small, dusty car park. Mountains stretch to the clouds on the horizon across the water that surrounds much of this Croatian city.
The familiar shouts and sounds of training echo from the giant shell-like stadium. It’s home to Hajduk Split, the second-largest club in Croatia. It’s a bit tired and worn these days, similar to the team, who have not won the Croatian league in 16 years.