DOHA, Qatar —
It was 115 degrees on the summer day I arrived in Qatar. That answered my first question: Why had FIFA, among the most hidebound and conservative of international sports bodies, agreed to buck nearly a century of tradition by playing the World Cup in the winter?
The second question was a bit more complicated: Why had Qatar, a tiny, conservative, Islamic emirate in the Persian Gulf worked so hard and spent so much to play host to the tournament?
![FIFA World Cup posters covering West Bay skyscrapers in Doha, Qatar.](https://ca-times.brightspotcdn.com/dims4/default/4d44677/2147483647/strip/true/crop/6309x4507+0+0/resize/2000x1429!/quality/80/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fcalifornia-times-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2F3e%2F63%2Ffae1df4f4875bea5240c81dc47df%2Fla-world-cup-2022-what-to-do-in-qatar-09.jpg)