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Sitting in Silence With 5,000 Fans: The New Sound of Japanese Sports

TOKYO — As the players drove the ball down the field, I suddenly heard the distinct crinkle of a plastic bag a full four rows in front of me, where a man was pulling out a chicken drumstick to eat.

This was the sound of Japanese professional soccer in the era of the coronavirus.

While the major sports leagues in the United States and Europe are playing mostly before empty stands or cardboard cutouts, fans in Japan have been attending games since early July, after a four-month hiatus.

But there are trade-offs.

In normal times, Japanese fans are not only loud, they are also extremely orchestrated and utterly disciplined.