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Eternal Outsiders: The Colour, Chaos and Catharsis of Life as a Napoli Fan

Felice Bracco is familiar with the aftermath of a big Napoli match. One of the tell-tale signs is that his chairs need replacing.

Bracco, 59, is the kindly owner of a cafe in central London that has been a home from home for Neapolitan football fans for around 10 years. Nestling between upmarket restaurants, smart gastropubs and contemporary art galleries on a stylish Fitzrovia street, it is the kind of place that most Londoners walk past without a second glance. But on match nights, it comes alive.

Felice Bracco
Felice Bracco Tom Williams

Enter the cafe, sidle around the corner of the service counter and then squeeze down a narrow staircase and you find yourself in a dimly lit, medium-sized basement room with three television sets arranged haphazardly alongside each other at one end.