The old pickup truck inched through the thick brush, creating a soundtrack of snapping sticks below and squealing limbs on either side, scraping against the car’s already weathered paint. It was late in the afternoon, and as the sun was beginning its slow descent toward the horizon, we drove directly toward it, forcing us to squint to see what was in front of us. My wife and I were on the Laikipia Plateau in central Kenya, on the first day of a two-week trip to Africa. It was a trip we had been talking about and hoping to make for years, and then a few years ago we managed to pull everything together and commit to the journey.
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