Felicitations:
We’re as fond of vegetables as anyone, but when the shank of summer comes around, our thoughts occasionally turn to meat. And when our thoughts turn to meat, you’ll often find us — and by us, I mean practically everyone in the Food section — gathered around the meat case at Belcampo Meat Co. in downtown's Grand Central Market, trying to figure out how the impeccably butchered shanks and flanks and butts might somehow turn into dinner.
In my column this week, I contemplate the new Belcampo restaurant in Santa Monica, a clubby steakhouse that sometimes seems like the speak-easy adjunct to the big, gleaming meat market in front.