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Counter: It's sizzling, from Mapo Galbi to Costa Mesa

Salutations,

Koreatown is home to scores of restaurants that specialize in one dish. Mapo Galbi's specialty is dak galbi, a spicy stir-fried chicken, a sweet-hot mountain of meat that is served with cabbage and rice noodles.

In my column this week, I visit Mapo Galbi, where the waitresses dump big bowls of marinated chicken on smoking hot pans on the table as part of the lengthy cooking ritual. Should you stir it yourself as it cooks? It couldn't hurt.

Elsewhere in the feed, Jenn Harris checks out a place in Costa Mesa where teenagers are working a pop-up, S.